Wednesday, October 30, 2013
What's wrong with this picture? I'm flying solo! After galavanting around at the Gaultier exhibition on Wednesday and then running around Atlantic Avenue after and partying like it's 1986 on Friday night (more about that in this Sunday's blog, darlings!), Valerie's ankle swelled up like a balloon, so she spent Saturday with it "iced and elevated". [Valerie says: Well, more like a perfectly stuffed sausage than a balloon, but the end result was the same. To paraphrase Seinfeld's Soup Nazi, no vintage show for you!]
What's a girl to do? Call in reinforcements! With Forest City Fashionista as my "wing man" (er, make that "wing woman"), I went to the Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show. Shelley wore a great hat, a corset imaged tee shirt and Pippi Longstocking leggings that looked like she was wearing a garter belt. It got great reactions from other shoppers and vendors.
For organization's sake, I've divided the post between People and Vintage Clothing.
PEOPLE: This trio of very vivacious ladies greeted us at Tracy Chambers Vintage. When I told the woman in the middle that we loved her Grace Jones tee-shirt, she gave Ms. Jones' classic response: "Grace in your face". Tracey Chambers Vintage is located in a brownstone in Brooklyn. Check it out on Etsy and Facebook.
Filippo Guerrieri and Pervis Ross at Sunset Boulevard posed, laughingly pointing to Valerie in absentia, saying "this is for you!" She had purchased a black polka dotted swing coat from them last year and they thought of her immediately when they saw this jacket. [Valerie, reclining immobized on a divan, eating bonbons with one leg elevated and the afflicted foot shod in an elastic ankle brace (which looks for all the world like a death-please-come-and-take-me-now beige support hose ankle sock, says: This looks marvelous! I want to see it in person! Just as soon as I'm done hobbling.]
Vintage Vandalizm greeted me, looking fab, as always, and was about the twentieth person to tell me that Jean Paul Gaultier was at the show. Rats! And SHE got his picture. Double rats! (No wonder she looks like the cat that ate the canary!) Neither Shelley nor I spotted JPG, even after prowling the aisles dying for a peek!
Meika Franz (in turban and patterned slacks) and her assistant posed outside her booth for Another Man's Treasure, an amazing store in Jersey City.
A short while later, I ran into Meika's husband Warren and their adorable baby, Biba. Of course, she was wearing vintage everything (shoes, leggings, dress) and had even added a jean jacket to make her look "edgier". One part hilarious and two parts adorable.
The inimitable Zondra Foxx, working her Andrews Sisters 1940s look, posed for a shot and then joined us for coffee.
Shelley and I kept running into this young dandy and each time, he was trying on a different men's vintage outfit. This time, he'd opted for a bowler and British prep school look.
Heidi looked fab, as usual. She really looks at home in vintage and wears it as if to the manner born (yes, manner, not manor - we're reinventing English for fun and profit. Okay, just for fun).
Chubo was mixing new headgear into his look of denim overalls, cowboy boots and leather jacket.
Shelley had seen fashion writer Lynn Yaeger at the show the day before with a model and photographer. On Saturday, she came back, this time to shop! Shelley caught her (and a friend) outside on the other side of the glass doors, just before she arrived.
Bruce Mihalski of Hollywood and Vine gets in touch with his masculine side.
... and his feminine side!
Theo from Paradox Designs, sporting the most outlandish headgear fashioned from colorful leather hightop sneaker uppers and giant feathers, posed with Shelley.
Tim John made an appearance at the show.
CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES:
We spotted these humorously crafted peep-toe sandals with built in shiny red toenails at Vintagelemonde.
Trends I spotted included monkey fur, like this coat as well as handbags, jackets, hats and coats.
Noble Savage Vintage from Brooklyn always has a well-edited selection of men's and women's vintage hats and accessories.
Deco Etc had this amazing pair of over-the-knee boots on display.
Aren't these Japanese inspired short shorts and bikini top fab-u-lous?
This black and white felted vest looked amazingly modern on the mannequin.
When we met for coffee, Zondra revealed the cache of vintage polka-dot earrings that she had saved for me. Last time I saw her, I was looking for earrings for Valerie's birthday present. His selection of six pairs looked good enough to eat. I am doling them out to Valerie two pairs at a time. When Shelley and I went up to meet her for dinner after the show, she received the turquoise (top right) and smaller round white and black (lower right) pair of earrings. If she's good, she may get two more sometime soon, but only IF ... [Valerie says: well, then, it's gonna be a reeeeeeeally long time before I see the rest of 'em. A chipped/fractured/broken ankle (or whatever euphemisms doctors are using these days) can make a gal cranky, and a cranky gal doesn't set much store by being good. More on the Adventures of Big Foot in a future post.]
Next vintage show: The Pier Antique Show November 23-24, 2013 on Pier 94 on the West Side Highway. For info, go to www.PierAntiqueShow.com Be there or be square, sweeties!
Sunday, October 27, 2013
We flirted with flying to Montreal in 2011 when we heard the Jean Paul Gaultier retrospective exhibition was there; we toyed with visiting Dallas in 2012 when it moved there, we schemed to get to San Francisco when we learned it was in California. We sighed great sighs of disappointment when we did none of these and thought all was lost. So you can imagine our frenzied delight when we heard in July that the fabled Gaultier show was coming to Brooklyn! It was as if we'd each found a thousand dollar bill on the sidewalk!
We already knew our friend Shelley, aka The Forest City Fashionista, was coming to see the October Manhattan Vintage Show, so when she asked what else she should see here, we told her to send her press credentials to The Brooklyn Museum for the press preview. What a wonderful time we had!
And - la pièce de résistance - we met the master himself! (Many thanks to Petros Poulopoulos and Primary Fashion magazine for this photo.)
For the closest experience to actually being there, check out JPG's absolutely FABULOUS video for the Brooklyn Museum Show:
(We shrank it so it would fit our screen, but if you'd like to see it again full size for more impact, click here.)
The trio most responsible for the success of the exhibition itself are Nathalie Bondil, Director and Chief Curator at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the designer himself, and Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the curator of the Gaultier exhibition.
The highlights of the press event with Gaultier and Loriot were the comments by the designer himself and his questions and answer session with the audience.
Our favorite question came from Margurita Schalyarevsky for Russian Bazaar who asked why designers don't make clothing for older women. We met her and her charming husband after the press conference ended.
In response to Margurita's question, Mr. Gaultier cited the fact that he does focus on men and women of all ages, shapes and sizes. His clothing isn't just worn by thin models. His number one example, both at the exhibition and at the gala party later that evening, is singer Beth Ditto. Here she is with the designer on the runway in March 2011 wearing his Rock'N'Romantic collection (Spring/Summer 2011). His second example might be that 55-year old performer who still wears his clothes on stage and off -- Madonna! Gaultier noted that Brooklyn, with all its diversity and growing counter-culture, was the perfect New York location for the show. (He spoke entirely off the cuff in English, by the way - no prepared notes - and must have spoken for a good fifteen minutes. Bravo!)
The exhibition was grouped thematically, rather than chronologically. This dress was in the midst of a host of other stripe-themed clothes. Just love the feathers that start sparsely and work their way into a huge feather-duster effect. Had Gaultier seen Ginger Rogers' feather dress in Top Hat when he designed this?
Of COURSE we loved this. Those of you who are tempted to think we're showing you a hat, look again. This is a jacket with a huge collar.
This ingenious black and white jersey bodysuit features long panels that form a dramatic ribbon-like train. Worn over jersey sailor pants, it was part of Ze Parisienne collection, a Bateau-Lavoir ensemble.
The text for this gown reads: "Latex bodysuit with gilded scales; shell cone bra; long, sequin-embroidered latex skirt; coral-motif rubber crutches." We present this as a tongue-in-cheek reference to Valerie's still-not-quite-ready-for-prime-time ankle.
That's a cage-like train you see at the back of this dress, lifted as if held by attendants. Pay special attention to the marvelous hat (we did!), a flat wire frame wound with fabric in a turban-like manner.
This dress is a grand mass of ribbons. The breast cups and panniers at the hips are also constructed of yards and yards of ribbon for a wonderfully textured effect.
Way back in March we were interviewed by Kemberly Richardson for ABC News, and blogged about it in April, when it ran on the 5 o'clock news. Here she is again interviewing Mr. Gaultier. He was extremely generous with his time and very animated as he described his work. If you look carefully, you can see that the walls above and below the mannequins are upholstered in pale quilted satin.
We got to chat with Kemberly after her interview and catch up on what she's been up to since we last saw her. She was wearing a terrific pair of Betsey Johnson metallic heels. This woman obviously loves her job. When she said the interview would be broadcast on WABC-TV at 4 PM, Jean was lucky enough to get her husband to record it for her. At the very end of the shot, the camera pans to the crowd in the background, shows Valerie and the screen goes dark.
Houndstooth hat, cigarette holder, glasses, face mask, jumpsuit, belt, gloves, pocketbook, umbrella and shoes. Hilarious! Wonderful!
From the 2001 Paris and Its Muses collection. To say this is made of leather is an understatement. Keep your eye on the eye in the center for a moment...
Here is a close-up of that eye. The face seems to have been taken straight from newsprint benday dots and reinterpreted for leather. Each strip is individually cut (by laser??) and sewn down.
We had the privilege of meeting Tanel Bedroissiantz, Gaultier muse and model, who has walked in 80 Gaultier shows since the mid-1980s. He was a total pussycat who introduced us to his boyfriend and chatted about his adventures in Brooklyn. Here he is with Jean...
And here he is in his best known photograph.
Seated one row up to our right at the press conference were two individuals whose hats we admired. When they turned their heads, we were thrilled to see that they were none other than artist Colette and journalist David Noh. We got to chat at the refreshment area after the formal remarks and photo ops ended.
We have ruthlessly beheaded this mannequin to give you a closer look at her amazing "film-covered corset". The label reads "Satin-edged, acetate film-covered corset with articulated shoulders and hips". The gown is called "Etoiles et toiles", which sounds like the same word twice in French, but means 'stars and cloth', showing the designer's wry sense of humor and word play. We've left this photo in its original size so you can also get a clear look at the fabulous bracelets.
Here is a close-up of the film pattern on the skirt. A few of the labels, in addition to listing essentials like dates and materials, also list "fabrication time". For this piece, the fabrication time was 125 hours. We're assuming this means the time spent putting the prepared parts together, and excludes the amount of time for drawings, pattern-making, fabric printing and cutting, etc. The amount of work is mind-boggling.
This elaborate piece is described as long silk satin and lace "cage", sequined chiffon and lace sheath. What it doesn't say is that black lace is wrapped around yards of satin tubing. As with the previous gown, fabrication time is also listed for this confection. At 295 hours, it took more than twice as long as Etoiles et Toiles. (This photo can also be enlarged for detail.)
Shelley and Valerie vogue for the camera.
The curator of the exhibition was the best advertisement for Gaultier's work. His leather flight suit was as soft as a baby's bottom. An ex-model, Thierry-Maxime knew how to work it. He is standing in front of Miles Aldridge's "Immaculate No. 3."
This dramatic pink shirred velvet strapless gown with cone bra cups is from the "Barbes" collection (Fall/Winter 1984-1985). You saw it above in sumptuous blue worn by Tanel Bedrossiantz in the 1982 Paolo Roversi photograph - the iconic image for the exhibition. And that's us posing next to it in the opening shots of this post.
Shelley got some one-on-one time with Thierry-Maxime.
This 3-D Patent Leather Cage Corset was worn by Madonna in her MDNA World Tour in 2012 when she was 54 years old. A "woman of a certain age" herself, Madge still has what it takes!
Photographer Rose Hartman was at the show and in the audience at the press conference, wearing her eponymous signature flower. In honor of the exhibit, the IFs both wore items from Gaultier's Soleil collection. The print of Valerie's dress is taken from an antique Japanese banner featuring a samurai on horseback. The very long sleeves were shortened and the excess used to cap her hat with. (Look quickly -- no moon boot! It was a fleeting occasion. Later that weekend, she was back in her own version of "das boot". Alas, she just can't seem to "shake shake shake her bootie"!)
Jean and Shelley smile for the camera. Jean's Soleil skirt with Japanese imagery and a giant eagle is so long, she had to fashion tiny elastic suspenders to hold it up under her bra. (If she hemmed it, it would have cut off half of the eagle.)
The designer was so approachable and friendly, he even posed for us in front of his portrait. We love how our photo captures a little of his impish nature.
BONUS VIDEO CLIPS:
A punk mannequin gives her opinion:
A mannequin in Gaultier's image tells part of a dark tale:
Here's Gaultier himself. The mannequin is great, but the real one is animated all over. No important remarks in this random clip. Just vibrant life and joy. Beside him is Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the show's beyond-fabulous curator.